End of New York Fashion Week?
Remember the first time you visited the Metropolitan Museum of Art? So many beautiful art pieces, and too little time to see each one? Many buyers and editors feel this same overwhelming feeling about Fashion Week. The approaching Fall 2013 New York Fashion Week has more designers than ever, causing some top designers to cancel their showings.
Joy Cioci, Daniel Vosovic and Chris Benz cancelled their shows and decided to present in March to editors and buyers when top designers are not showing, according to a Refinery article. They hope that by showing at a less busy time, editors and buyers will be able to focus more on their collections. Yoana Baraschi, who will show mid-March also, wanted a more intimate showing, and said that she will be able to hire better stylists who are usually booked during Fashion Week, the Wall Street Journal reported.
Many editors and buyers were disappointed by Peter Som’s cancellation. Peter Som, a favorite of Michelle Obama and Scarlett Johansson, instead decided to work on his collection and show it at a later, at a time to be unannounced.
Betsey Johnson said that she would not be showing at Fashion Week, but then changed her mind: “I just could not stay away from Fashion Week; I wanted to do this for myself and for all of my fans to show that I still got it and I am not going anywhere!" she said in a press release.
Some designers have decided to make videos of their collections. They will send these videos not only to stores and editors, but also to the public. This is a cheaper option that will reach a greater audience. Other designers have decided to accompany their presentations with a video and private appointments.
There are many speculations about what has caused all these designers to withdraw from "the race." Cost is a probable cause; designers easily drop six-figures on their showcases, and these expenses have caused many designers to question whether the cost is worth it, according to the WSJ.
Another possible reason is the calendar and booking process. Refinery writes, “There is currently no official party to regulate the schedule--a system that’s already in place for the Milan and Paris shows.”
In Milan and Paris, designers must be invited to show, unlike in New York. This may be another possible explanation as to why more designers are showing their collections abroad at London, Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks.
NYFW used to be reserved for top designers, but now more mid-price labels are debuting their fashions. Many feel as if there are simply too many shows and that it is impossible to see all of them.
As a result, some designers began showing Feb. 4, even though NYFW officially runs Feb. 7-14. This early start was an attempt to fit in all the designers.
Some editors and buyers go to 10 shows a day. They have to take many pictures in order to remember the collections, and, at times, they must choose between going to shows of different top designers. Now, there is a split between buyers and editors. Fashion Week has become more focused on editors and bloggers; thus, there is difficulty in seating top retail stores, let alone small boutiques.
The WSJ said Nary Manivong will be showing his new label to editors by appointment in March, and shared that "for me, Fashion Week will always be there. I can always come back." Alternatives are just options--not permanent decisions. If all else fails, designers can always return to the next Fashion Week.